Oh, Colombia…what a place. The past week and a half has really flown by. I have met some incredible people who are doing some very inspiring work. There is a lot I could talk about but I will start by giving you a glimpse of the two cities I have been in.
At first entering the city center of Medellín, I experienced a bit of sensory overload. It is a bustling city, with hordes of people all passing in different directions. As you walk through the streets you see an array of bright colors in the advertisements up above. People pass by in every direction. Motorcycles skillfully weave in and out of traffic, while taxis and buses honk and yell. Your eyes constantly shift between the people passing around on every side and the upcoming obstacles and potholes. Vendors boldly broadcast their goods “arepa arepa arepa” and the smell of fried food fills the air. It is a city full of life and it is a city with an incredible history. Throughout the 80’s and 90’s, Medellín was considered one of the most dangerous cities in the world for its size. It was the home of the drug lord Pablo Escobar and the Medellín Cartel, who virtually controlled the city during that time. Since his demise in the mid-1990's, the cartel was disbanded and the city rebounded tremendously. In 1991 there were 6500 murders in the city, by 2009 the murder rate decreased to 2900.
For those interested in development and social change, Medellin is a textbook example. The local government has implemented many initiatives aimed toward the most poverty stricken and vulnerable parts of their city. Thanks to those efforts there has been a dramatic restoration within a short time. There are banners throughout the city that say, “Tú eres parte de la transformación” (you are part of the transformation). This message gives the power to each person, reminding them of their ability to make change possible in their city. This allows everyone to claim ownership and pride in their environment.
One of the most impressive initiatives is a metro system with cable cars that extend to the outer impoverished communities. These areas bred violence and gang control due to their isolation and vulnerability. Now there is more regulation, accountability and employment options for the people of these communities. The cable provides cheap and quick transportation to the commerce centers of the city. The major changes have created a new reality for many people because city officials have chosen to invest resources into the most impoverished and violent areas of their city. However, the city is still one of major contrast. In a different section you have “el poblado” where the Colombian elite live. There are luxury shopping malls, fine dining and booming nightlife. Although nice, this area also looses the identity of the greater city as this is the only district where you will find foreign influence such as McDonalds, Quicksilver, or Armani, which can all be found here. This is the reality of the double-edged sword of globalization. However, this section fits into a piece of the diverse puzzle, which this city portrays. Not only has Medellín seen many changes, but the country as a whole has experienced internal conflict since the colonial days. Colombians say that every single person in the country has been affected by the “civil war” throughout the last few decades between guerillas and paramilitary. It is an unknown war, which has killed tens of thousands, and displaced millions. It is a war that still continues today.
A quick plane ride away I am now in the coastal city of Cartagena on the northern Caribbean side of Colombia. This is practically a different country in itself, with a unique less comprehensible style of Spanish (sigh). This city also has a rich history. Nicknamed “Gateway to the Americas” Cartagena served as the most influential port during colonial days. Most of the gold that left Latin America during colonization came out of Cartagena. It was also a trade center for slaves and natural resources.
The city has a unique blend of Spanish and Carribean flare. The city center is built in beautiful colonial Spanish architecture, with cobblestone streets, vibrant colors, great restaurants and outdoor plazas. The city is a fortress protected by a sea wall armed with canons on top. It is a beautiful relaxing place. In fact, as I write this I am overlooking the ocean from my hotel balcony. Cartagena is now a developed tourist destination. Come on a weekend and you will see groups of Europeans flood the city as a cruise ship pulls into port. However if you talk to any local cartagenero you will quickly see that this is a city with two faces. The city center and boca grande (think Miami in the 80’s) make up only about 20% of the population. The outskirts are a much different reality. Just like in its colonial era Cartagena still serves as a slave port. Some statistics place Cartagena as the second biggest destination in the world for human trafficking after Bangkok. Prostitutes walk the streets and hustlers offer us “Whatever we need”. This is a daily reality.
In the midst of all of this I have seen a lot of hope. I have had the privilege of meeting some incredible people who are really making a change. I have been traveling with various co- workers but tomorrow they will return home and I will leave for a town called Sincelejo. I am sad to part with my crew, especially since I now have to fully immerse in Spanish, which is a slow frustrating process. However it will force me to learn. I am also excited because I have an incredible opportunity to learn from a man who was described to me as the Gandhi of Colombia. He works to restore peace in communities that have been displaced by guerilla control. I will stay there for a month to study and document his methodology in community development. Not a bad assignment. Stay tuned.
-Chad
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